APRIL 2018

SOUTH-AFRICA ~ WHERE THE MOUNTAIN IS FLAT AND THE FLAGSHIP GRAPE IS RED PINOTAGE.

Well hello there …

“MY HEART WILL ALWAYS BEAT TO AN AFRICAN DRUM”

In 2008 I started working for “Odysseus Deluxe Travel”, a Belgian touroperator specialized in high-end travel. I started as travel consultant for their “circuits-brochure”, but due to reorganizations, they asked me after a couple of months to additionally help-out on the Africa department. My colleague Koen, an old hand in the trade, taught me all he knew about his beloved Africa and asked me a few months later, to accompany a group of travel agents on an educational trip to Namibia. That’s the moment I truly fell in love with Africa. The African sunsets are the most beautiful in the world, the landscapes are breathtaking and diverse, the people are friendly and relaxed, their music contagious, but MOST of all, when I travel in Africa I feel humility, sobriety and inner peace taking the upper hand. It’s hard to explain! But I am sure am not a loner.

So after visiting Namibia, Kenia and Tanzania, it’s not surprisingly that South-Africa was standing on top of my wanderlist.

For my boyfriend, Christophe it was his first encounter with Africa. Although I was pretty sure he would be pleasantly surprised, I had to wait his final judgement. But guess what … he definitely wants to go back :-)

Practical Wisdom

We flew with Qatar Airways as we wanted to use our air miles. Not really the most direct connection, but certainly one of the better airline companies. From Brussels it took us almost 18 hours, with a short stopover in Doha. While companies like Lufthansa, KLM and British Airways would bring us there in 13 to 14 hours. But all for the money :-)

You don’t need a visa for South-Africa, only an international passport. A yellow fever vaccination is not obliged, but recommended if you visit game parks like Kruger. If you rent a car it’s recommended that you have an international driver license. You need to order it at your city hall, we paid € 16 and it’s valid for 3 years.

A question we asked ourselves … Do we need to rent a car? I was convinced we didn’t … to visit Cape Town, but how about Cape Peninsula and the Wine region? My research taught me that the options for a private driver or excursion are pretty expensive, in comparison with the cost for renting a car. So although, I was too afraid to drive, and my boyfriend not so keen to drive on the left-hand side of the road and a little bit suspicious for the unknown, we decided to rent a car with Avis. The roads are well maintained, the signalization is clear and Cape Town not more hectic than the big cities in Belgium. If you have an accident, luckily we didn’t, you take pictures of the accident scene and write down the license plate of the other car. Next, drive to the nearest police office to report the accident. ( If still possible off course ) You will need the file number to fill-in on the insurance papers, when returning the car.

In Cape Town we used UBER a lot, we never had to wait more than 5 minutes, and we never felt unsafe or scammed. In the wine region Uber is not operating frequently. We also bought a ticket for the hop-on- hop-off bus leaving from Alfred Waterfront. Normally I find it too touristic, but it was an easy and affordable way to get from 1 touristic hotspot to another. And after all learning a little bit of history, while sitting in the sun on the open roof, is not that unpleasant. The busses drive up to Table Mountain, Kirstenbosch Gardens, Camps Bay, etc … We paid for a 1 day ticket, Classic tour, ZAR 200 pp.

When we booked our trip, the water shortage and safety were much-discussed topics. So I feel obliged to tell you something more about this.

The major of Cape Town predicted in October 2017 that the city would run out of water by March 2018. Since then, the date for what officials are calling “Day Zero” has shifted from April to May, etc…, as of July 2018, Cape Town looks to have evaded a water catastrophe, at least for this year. We did our bit, by not washing our car before drop-off, by not taking long showers and collecting the water from the shower in a bucket when warming up.

European Governments inform in general that “South Africa has a very high level of crime, including rape and murder. The risk of violent crime to visitors travelling to the main tourist destinations is generally low although. The South African authorities give high priority to protecting tourists. The risk of crime increases in urban areas. “
When we visited Cape Town I did not feel unsafe at any moment. At night we did not walk although, but booked UBER’s or taxi’s from door to door. The only moment I felt unsafe was the day we visited Cape Peninsula by car. When we stopped at places like Hout Bay & Muizenberg. We parked our car on a big public parking, next to a local tourist minibus. Walking in direction of the beach a local woman came to us with the message that we had to take another road because otherwise the chance been robbed was pretty realistic.  She also mentioned, don’t worry I will look after your car in the meantime. Back at our car, she asked for money because she had warned us. When we thanked her and stepped into our car and drove away, she was displeased and tried to jump in front of our car. So when road tripping in the more urban areas outside Cape Town, I would recommend to stay alert and not to take unnecessary risks. In the wine region we felt as safe as home, we also drove at night without feeling unsafe at any time.

One last practical wisdom, don’t forget your travel adapter. If you do, no worries in Cape Town they sell electrical plugs in numerous grocery stores and pharmacies.

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The tourist hotspots of Cape Town

  • Victoria & Alfred Waterfront ~ One of Cape Town’s biggest tourist attractions. Enjoy lunch at one of the many restaurants. We didn’t go for the Belgian restaurant “Den Anker “, but for “Vovo Tele”, next to the “Cape Wheel “. They offer nice boards to share. I am also a big fan of the V&A Food market. If you like unique handmade arts & crafts, I recommend visiting the “Water Shed”, close to the “Two Oceans Aquarium”. A lot of tourists take a boat trip to Robben Island, were Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years, the boat trip to the Island provides an opportunity to see seals, whales and dolphins. But we decided to rent a bike instead, at the V&A Waterfront Tourism Information Centre ( ZAR 75 pp for 2 hrs ).
    We drove along the coast from Green Point, to Sea Point, Bantry Bay and Clifton, sometimes the streets were pretty steep but we really enjoyed.

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  • Table Mountain ~ A must see, when you’re in Cape Town. The website quotes: “ It’s a city that’s been known to sport four seasons in one day, with a mountain that serves as the focal point of the schizophrenic weather patterns. “ If you stay for a few nights in Cape Town, I would recommend planning your visit in function of the weather conditions. We booked our ticket, online in advance (ZAR 290 / € 20 pp). Although those tickets are flexible, we were lucky that the weather conditions were ideal at the moment we scheduled our visit. We arrived with the hop-on-hop-off city bus. The ride with the cable car takes about 5 minutes. Make sure you bring a jacket because on top of the mountain it can be breezy. If you want to try 1 of the 5 Table Mountain hikes, make sure you wear the wright shoes and stretch-out enough time. On your visit to Table Mountain you will definitely encounter the Rock Hyrax.

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  • Camps Bay ~ the glamorous, cosmopolitan seaside suburb of the Mother City, with an exceptionally beautiful setting amongst the Twelve Apostles and Lion’s Head, on the other side of Table Mountain. Extensive beaches with chilly turquoise water and Victoria Road flanked with trendy bars and chic restaurants. The beach is lined with palm trees, rock pools and enormous boulders. It’s a popular, but also more expensive location to stay.

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  • Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens ~ UNESCO World Heritage Site. We arrived late in the afternoon with the Hop-on-Hop-Off city bus, and didn’t have the time to explore the whole park. We immediately searched for the “Canopy Walkway “, a 130-metre steel-and-timber bridge that snakes its way through and over the trees. The pictures I found on Pinterest,  created high expectations, in reality it was a little disappointing though. The gardens are beautiful, but did not leave a lasting impression with me. The entree fee was ZAR 65 / € 5 pp.

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  • Cape Point NR ~ A spectacular sight with towering stone cliffs, endemic fynbos, breathtaking bays, beaches and rolling green hills and valleys, just 60km outside Cape Town. It is not the southernmost point of Africa (that honor goes to Cape Agulhas) but Cape Point makes you feel as if you are standing at the edge of the world. As mentioned earlier we rented a car to get there  and followed the scenic route “Chapman’s Peak”. We paid ZAR 215 / € 15 pp to enter the Nature Reserve. You can drive from 1 viewpoint to another. Along the way we saw baboons, ostriches, etc … We also climbed to the light tower to enjoy the spectacular views.

  • Groot-Constantia Wine Estate ~ the oldest wine producing estate of South-Africa. Producing wine continuously since 1685 = 330 years. They are open 7 days a week. This National Heritage site provides tastings and cellar tours. Groot Constantia is noted particularly for its production of high-quality red wines, including Shiraz, Merlot and blended red Gouverneurs Reserve. They have won multiple gold medals. Set in beautiful grounds, the estate can become busy with tour groups, that’s why we doubted we should visit or not. We arrived in the early evening and asked for a wine tasting, ZAR 95 / € 7 pp for 5 wines. At the pay desk, they informed us we were too late, as the wine tasting closes at 17h00. We went to the bar to order a glass of wine instead. A nice lady poured us a glass and started talking, the more questions we asked, the more different glasses were filled. Before we realized, we enjoyed a free wine tasting with a very professional explanation. We decided to buy a vintage bottle “Grand Constance” to take home with us, a perfect dessert wine to open at Christmas and drink with your beloved ones.

Save water, drink wine …

Close to Cape Town, the wine region is home to some of the world's most popular wines. The wine estates, commonly elegant Cape Dutch-style buildings and vast vineyards backed by picturesque mountains in stunning settings, are open to the public for tours and tastings, with many also boasting award-winning eateries. A European influence can be felt due to the arrival of French, Dutch and German settlers during the 18th century.

We focused our stay on Stellenbosch and Franschhoek and skipped Paarl.

Stellenbosch is one of South Africa’s oldest towns; it is home to some of the best restaurants in the country, the finest wine estates as well as the popular Stellenbosch University. Stellenbosch is more central than Franschhoek; every part of the Cape Winelands is within a 30 minute drive. It’s probably fair to say that many of the better wine estates in South Africa are in the Stellenbosch valley with its slightly milder climate.

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Franschhoek is a very pretty charming town, in a gorgeous valley with a central street “ Huguenot Road” crammed with Chi-Chi little shops and art galleries. You can feel the French influence and that this village is orientated on tourists, everything is pretty expensive here.

Wine estates are a dime a dozen, so it can be hard to know where to start. The Franschhoek Wine Tram hop-on hop-off tour is an option to discover the heart of the Franschhoek Valley.  
It’s affordable, fairly flexible, and allows you to visit up to six wineries in one day without driving. Quoting Robert Kiyosaki “No one achieves great things by following the crowd. Have a spine. Strike your own path.”; we decided to do a bit of research and to make our own selection of wineries.

We selected:

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  • Waterford Estate ~ https://www.waterfordestate.co.za/  where we booked the “Porcupine Trail wine walk” discovering the vineyards and enjoying a chocolate and wine tasting. (ZAR 350 pp)

In comparison with the French wine houses the South-African wine houses are cheap when it comes to wine tasting. They are also much more accessible and commercial, less presumptuous. Before you buy bottles to take home, make sure you visit your government’s website. We Belgians are allowed to export max 4l non-sparkling wine and 2l sparkling wine.

When I first saw you, you took my breath away!

  • Boulders Beach ~ one of the highlights of our trip was definitely, Boulders Beach. It’s situated in False Bay, just outside Simon’s Town. Picture-postcard beaches with large granite boulders protecting the beach from wind and large waves. It’s the place in the world to get close to the African Penguins. We were there during the peak (March - May) of the breeding season, during the first 2 months the babies get fed in the late afternoon. So we were fortunate to see a huge colony of penguins at the beach. Although it was raining hard, I enjoyed every minute of it. We spend almost 2 hours just observing them. You’ve got 2 entrances, the main entrance where you enter the viewing platform at Foxy Beach and a smaller 2nd entrance where you can go on Boulders beach and climb on the big rocks, enjoying the magnificent views. ( Entrance Fee ZAR 76 pp )

  • Babylonstoren ~ https://www.babylonstoren.com/
    One of the oldest Cape Dutch farms, it has a fruit and vegetable garden of beauty and diversity, unique accommodation, fine food and wine and a sense of well-being. We arrived at night for our diner at the Babel restaurant, housed in an old cow shed, a wonderful mix of Cape Dutch architecture with contemporary design. Their aim: “We have a farm-to-fork philosophy, which means we like to serve food that is seasonal and that reflects our pick, clean and serve approach”. After paying the bill, 1 thing was sure; I wanted to come back the day after to explore this little piece of heaven in daylight. So the day after we returned; first we made a walk in the beautiful garden, next we enjoyed a wine tasting joined by a delicious food platter. Although I am normally not a fan of Biological wines, I must admit that I was impressed by the flavors of their Chenin Blanc, their Mourvèdre Rosé and Babel Red wine. We ended our visit at the farm shop. WAUW “Shop till you drop” crossed my mind when I entered! Luckily for my wallet I kept in mind that my suitcase was not big enough and the trip home pretty far. So we bought a couple of bottles wine, a very nice picnic basket and some delicious homemade chutneys. Babylonstoren, stole my heart! From the bottom of my heart, I hope to return one day.

Would you like a table?

They say, people are talking about South African food, the way they once talked about its wine.
The Western Cape has such a huge foodie scene, that it can be difficult to choose between the hundreds of great restaurants.

We had dinner at following places:

  • Azure Twelve Apostles https://www.12apostleshotel.com/food-and-drink/azure-restaurant  
    I was curious about this place, as I sold the Twelve Apostles hotel a lot in the past as a luxurious colonial style hotel, with positive reviews. And I hoped to enjoy a remarkable Atlantic Ocean sunset while sipping at a glass of good wine. The dinner, however, disappointed. The quality of the food and the service was not in balance with the price we paid and the image they project.

  • Kloof Street House http://www.kloofstreethouse.co.za/ 
    I selected this place as I wanted to experience the cosmopolitan feeling,  of a popular downtown restaurant. It’s a vibrant place with a beautiful outdoor patio, friendly staff and modern menu. In my opinion it was slightly too expensive, but still acceptable.

  • Foxcroft https://www.foxcroft.co.za/
    Located in Constantia, at half an hour from the Mother City. TOP RECOMMANDATION!!! This restaurant is associated with La Colombe, positioned amongst the top restaurants in the world, and La Petite Colombe. They aim to cook with the same intensity and thoughtfulness as fine dining but in a more casual and approachable format. We had a superb 4-course tapas dinner with a nice wine-pairing. Star level at a very attractive rate. We paid ZAR 1950 / € 115 for 2, including apero & coffee. The service was professional, friendly and easy-going. Really impressed, PLEASE go and experience!

  • Delaire Graff http://www.delaire.co.za/
    I had to see that magical terrace overlooking a sea of vineyards. Unfortunately it was stormy that night and we had to dine inside. I did not like the dining room; it’s big and a bit too impersonal for me. We wanted to end our trip to South Africa with a culinary highlight and I heard and read good reviews about this Relais & Chateau. Sadly, Delaire Graff did not live up to the expectations or the standards of this kind of establishments. The food was rather moderate than exceptional and the service was pretentious and even arrogant when they were disappointed by the gratuity we gave them. We paid ZAR 2400 / € 145 for a 2-course dinner and a bottle of wine and water.

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Good night, sleep tight.

Cape Town

We stayed at “The Tree House Boutique Hotel”, located in GreenPoint, close to V&A Waterfront.
BEST CHOICE EVER! It’s a small contemporary Boutique style hotel, located at the end of a steep street, well fenced and with a small private parking. The rooms are big, very clean, with all modern comfort, but cozy. The staff was super friendly, professional and helpful in any way they can. But what will stay with me the most is their delicious and original breakfast. They offer a small buffet with fresh fruits, spreads, homemade cake and bread, a fresh juice of the day, etc … And additionally they have a small menu were you can choose 1 item from, from a delicious oatmeal , to all sort of eggs, pancakes, crostini’s, etc … The plates were refined and finger licking good ! The owner is a German investor, we had the chance to talk with him, a very lovely and sophisticated person seems to me.
http://www.thetreehouseboutiquehotel.co.za/

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 There were a few other options we considered:

  • Villa Zest Boutique Hotel http://www.villazest.co.za/
    From the  same owner / group than Tree House Boutique, and located in the same area.

  • The Trevoyan Guesthouse http://trevoyan.co.za/
    Located in Tamboerskloof, close to Table Mountain. Beautiful, heartwarming guesthouse in Victorian style.

  • Grand Daddy Boutique Hotel https://www.granddaddy.co.za/ l
    Located in Long Street, the funkiest and loudest street in Cape Town. For something different, be sure to check out the legendary airstream trailer rooms on the roof.

  • Sea Five Boutique Hotel https://www.seafive.co.za/
    At 300m from Camps Bay Beach, close enough to the vibe, without being overwhelmed by the crowds. Only 7 rooms in traditional beach style.

  • Four Rosmead http://fourrosmead.com &  Welgelegen https://welgelegen.co.za/
    Both located in Oranjezicht, the streets are lined with Victorian-era homes, great views, quick access to city sites and a big choice of boutique guesthouses.

Looking for something more exclusive & outstanding?

Wine Region

We stayed at “The Lavender Guesthouse” in Franschhoek. Encapsulated by a 3 hectare purple Lavender field and mountains. Unfortunately the lavender was not in bloom, when we stayed there. The white cottages are built around a well-maintained garden with a nice swimming pool. It was raining cats and dogs, so we didn’t have the opportunity to jump in. The rooms are spacious with very high ceilings and decorated in a romantic style. The guesthouse is owned by a retired British couple. The owner told us passionately about his career as a pilot. The breakfast was nothing fancy, but the entire standard you expect like fruit, cereals, toast, eggs, etc was available. 

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We also looked at:

  • Bosschendal Cottages http://www.boschendal.com/farm-accommodation  
    Halfway between the key towns of Franschhoek and Stellenbosch. 23 Well designed cottages, with 1 to 5 bedrooms, you can choose to stay down in the "Werf" (farmstead) or up amongst the hillside fynbos where you're more remote.

  • Oude Werf Hotel https://www.oudewerf.co.za/
    South Africa’s  oldest hotel, built on the site of its first church, in the city center of  Stellenbosch. Modern’ meets ‘Vintage’. Today, after much rebuilding, stands the Oude Werf Hotel as we know it, with its modern contemporary flare.

  • La Petite Ferme https://www.lapetiteferme.co.za/index.php  
    A great combination of beautifully appointed rooms, an award winning  restaurant and splendid views.

Looking for something more exclusive and outstanding:

ONS HET DIE TYD VAN ONS LEWENS GEHAD. HOOP OM GOU TERUG TE WEES !